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Food can satiate and can also tell a story. Lee Chi-lin, a professor of history at Tamkang University, arranged a banquet exploring the 1884 Battle of Tamsui through food, each dish conveying some aspect of this significant conflict of the Sino-French War.

Abalone, squid, shrimp, and other seasonal seafood is served in boats, using blue salt to mimic the ocean. This course is meant to convey the French fleet’s four-ship salvo sent during the Battle of Tamsui during the Sino-French War.

Instead of the usual lettuce wrap, this minced shrimp is served with waffle cones to give it a sweet crunch. This course, titled “Echoes of the Trading House,” also comes with a story.

Lee Chi-lin
Tamkang University history professor
Douglas Lapraik & Co was a British merchanthouse located very close to the pier. The British knew early on that the French were planning to attack, so they instructed all the British nationals there to quickly board ships and evacuate. So we used the waffle cones to represent the megaphones that helped spread the word to all the foreigners in Tamsui.

Next up is “Rain of Fire.” The sweetness of the mussels and shrimp seep into the squid ink risotto, designed to recreate Tamsui’s devastation in the wake of the French bombardment.

Lu Chia-hsing
Chef
The “Rain of Fire” was the most difficult one. How do you convey the chaos of falling cannonballs? We spent a long time coming up with how to present this course.

The course “Sacred Radiance” uses mozzarella sticks and two colors of glutinous rice balls to represent cannons. By translating the chaos of war into a feast, Tamkang University professor Li Chi-lin has created a culinary time machine for diners to taste their way through Tamsui’s storied history.

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